Bike Maintennance
Preventing Squeaky Disc Brakes: Tips from Avid
02 months ago
Have you ever had your disc brakes squeal or vibrate? This is an issue for a lot of bikers with disc brakes, and it’s not specific to Avid brand of disc brakes, it happens with Shimano, Formula, and Magura. It’s often asked what can be done to prevent squeaky disc brakes, and there are a lot of different answers to be found online. Our friends at Avid provided us with a great set of instruction on how to prevent the squeal and vibration sometimes experienced in disc brakes.
Rotor and Brake Pad Bed-in
To achieve full braking power the brake pads and rotors should be fully bedded in before the first ride. Proper bed in can prevent noise and vibration in a system, if done incorrectly these problems cannot be solved without pad and/or rotor replacement.
The purpose of bed in is to apply a thin even layer of pad material to the brake rotor. At a basic level this layer allows the brake pad material to generate friction on the rotor surface in use. Bed in should be done on a new brake and after any pad/rotor replacement.
To achieve proper bed in the rotors and pads must be brought to operating temperature allowing a transfer and then allowed to cool fully. During this process it is very important the rotor does not come to a complete stop with the brakes applied, this can create a thicker layer of material at one point leading to vibrations later in use.
To bed in a rotor:
1) Select a riding area which allows for a moderate speed, for safety remain seated.
2) Accelerate to a moderate speed and apply brakes evenly, slowing to a walking pace. It is important to prevent a complete stop. Do this 20 times, braking power will increase during this process.
3) Accelerate to a slightly higher speed and apply the brakes, slowing to a walking pace. Do this 10 times, do not come to a complete stop.
4) Allow the brakes to fully cool before riding.
After the bed in process the brakes should operate at full power without noise.
With these tips and proper maintenance you are ready for fun trail rides that are free from squeaky brakes and mechanical issues. For questions please comment below or contact us.
Preventing Flats on Your Road Bike
010 months ago
Preventing Flats on Your Road Bike
We often get asked by newer road bike riders, “Why am I always getting flats?” We thought we would give a few tips on how to avoid flats on your road bike.
When you head out on the first bike ride of the year you usually pump-up your tires to the max psi listed on the tire sidewall (usually 110-130psi), and you are on your way. A couple days later you get the bike out and go for another ride, but on this ride you get a flat while you are just riding along. Why?
One of the most common reasons of a flat on a road bike is improper tire pressure. Because you are putting so much air pressure in such a small space you will lose up to 30 psi overnight. This is normal. If you are only running 80-90psi in your tires, which is common if you didn’t check your tire pressure before your ride, hitting rocks, railroad tracks, cattle guards, etc., will put just enough stress on the tube that it may not flat immediately, but it will go flat 5 miles down the road when you are just ridding along. Here is a tip to help prevent the majority of flats: Pump your tires up before EVERY ride. Even if you ride in the evening and are riding again in the morning, check your tire pressure.
The best way to check your tire pressure is with a good floor pump. A good floor pump may run you $80 but it will save you more in the long run with the cost of tubes and labor to change them if you aren’t able to do it yourself. Check out the Fezzari 2-in-1 floor pump here.
A few other tips to prevent flats.
While your tire is off of your wheel, run your fingers on the inside of your tire to feel for any thorns, glass, rocks, or any other foreign objects that could pop a tube. Also check the inside of the rim to ensure there aren’t any burrs that could cause the flat. This is applicable to mountain bike wheels and tires too.
While riding, avoid the gravel patches that are common at intersections. These small rocks can put small slices in your tires and decrease tire life as well as cause flats.
When crossing railroad tracks, cattle guards or other unavoidable bumps, slow down and stand up. This will allow your body to absorb some of the shock instead of putting all the force on your tires and bike frame.
Tech Tips for Pre-Season Bike Check
01 year ago
Here are a few tips and ideas of things you may want to check on your bike to help keep you riding instead of making repairs throughout the season. A happy bike is a bike that is being ridden.
Chain: One of the first items to wear out on your bike is the chain. As you pedal, the chain is pulled against the teeth of the cassette and chain rings. A bike chain contains bushings in between the links allowing the chain to bend and move as it is guided through the derailleur and around the chain rings. Over time these bushings become worn and cause your chain to stretch and wear out. A worn chain can cause improper shifting and can be the cause of your chain skipping.
Maintenance: Regular cleaning and lubing will prolong the life of your chain, however; any chain will wear out. A well maintained chain should get about 1,000-2,500 miles before needing replacement.
Replacement: Regularly check your chain (once a month recommended) with a “chain checker” tool, have your local bike shop check it or by following these instructions. Pull out a ruler or measuring tape line up the “0” mark in the center of one of the rivets, the 6” mark should sit in the center of the rivet of the (12th link away), if the center of that rivet is more than 1/8” past the 6” mark it is time to replace it.
Chainrings: Chainrings wear as much as any component, but they also are subject to damage from falls, rocks, and other obstacles, that can bend or break teeth. Worn chainrings will have rounded teeth and are a possible cause of skipping under heavy torque
Maintenance: A regular inspection of your chain rings is necessary. Look for bent or missing teeth and areas of excessive wear. Keep in mind that not all the teeth on chainrings are symmetrical. They are designed this way for better shifting.
How to Replace Your Chainring: Chainrings are designed to fit the chain link almost perfectly. If you notice your chain slipping or you are having difficulty shifting between your chainrings, they may need to be replaced. Each tooth should form closed, rounded mountain shape with steeper sides and a nice round top. If they have steep ramped sides with a pointed top it is time to replace the chain ring.
Cassette: A cassette has very intricate designs to help aid in shifting. The teeth on the cassette, like chainrings, are designed to work in very close contact with your chain to enhance performance.
Bike Cassette Maintenance: Your cassette should be regularly cleaned and inspected. Keep as much road grim, or grit off the cassette as possible. Clean it especially after those wet muddy or gritty rides. An old toothbrush is a good tool to clean in between the individual cogs.
Replacement: The teeth should form closed, rounded mountain shapes like the chain rings. Though not as often, teeth can become broken or bent from falls, rocks and obstacles. If your chain is skipping under torque or skipping it could mean it is time for the cassette to be replaced.
Tires: Depending on your riding style and what compounds the tires are made of they wear differently.
Maintenance: You should inspect your tires before every ride, you are looking for signs of wear, if you can see any threads, belts, or any of the tube it is time to replace the tire. Replacement: Although most tires can sustain good amounts of abuse, side wall damage, or excessive wear should not be taken lightly. On mountain bikes your center knobs most likely will wear the most, and on road bikes the center strip will wear the fastest. Your rear tire will usually wear faster than your front. It is often a good idea to rotate your front tire to the rear and replace the front tire with a new tire to get the most miles out of them.
Cables & Housing: When cables are new they will have an initial break-in period, when they will stretch. Shifting will become sloppy and inaccurate; they need a quick tune to bring them back up to normal. Over time cables and housing start to wear out and cause shifting to “stick,” your bike may not down shift or up shift with the same ease and glide that it used to.
Maintenance: Your cables and housing need occasional lubing, and periodic replacing. If you have ridden in muddy or gritty conditions it can enter inside your housing and cause future problems. After a muddy or gritty ride, make sure to clean your bike and lube all cables and housings, to help prolong their life. Putting chain lube on your cables and running them through the housing so the lube penetrates the inside of the housing is helpful.
Replacement: Cables and housing can also become bent and cause shifting or braking issues. If housing or cables are bent, or have had a good year of frequent riding they should be replaced. Sometimes housing & cable ends can fray, if this is the case it needs to be inspected, they may need replacing.
Brake Pads: Your brakes are one of your most important components to keep in tip-top shape.
Maintenance: Disc brake care includes keeping the pads & rotors clean of debris and grit. You should periodically (weekly if you ride regularly) inspect your brake pads for chunks missing, grit, build-up, or excessive wear. You can clean up your pads with isopropyl alcohol, and some medium to fine sandpaper. Your rotor you should clean with isopropyl alcohol. Road or rim brakes you should use similar procedure, and every few weeks file the pad surfaces with sandpaper.
Replacement: For Road or rim brakes there are grooves cut into the pads, when they wear down toward the bottom of those grooves, or to the wear mark (on the side of the pad), you should replace the pads. Disc brake pads can usually last quite a while, but when pads are getting close to being flush with the metal piece on the pad it is time to replace them. Also severe chunks or score marks across the pads face can compromise braking and should be replaced.
Keeping your bike clean and lubed is mandatory to getting the full life out of it. Although falls and trail obstacles can damage parts, the worst is grit and road grime, if allowed to remain on moving parts they will eat away at them. Your bikes components’ life will be drastically reduced. If your bike is well maintained it will keep you happier and those long miles will be much more enjoyable.
Is it Time to Show Your Bike Chain a Little Love?
01 year ago
Is it time to show your chain a little love?
Have you ever been riding your favorite trail and it seems like that awful squeak coming from your chain is going to break your eardrums? Let’s face it, without a chain your bike would be nothing more than a hunk of metal hanging in your garage. Water and dirt are a chain’s worst enemies. Dirt can get in between your chain links and cassette causing premature wear and possibly your chain to break. Cleaning your drivetrain could be the most valuable maintenance you can do to your Fezzari. Here are a few tips on cleaning your chain and keeping it properly lubed so you are able to ride more efficiently. Bottom line, a happy chain means a happy rider.
Cleaning Your Chain
You will need 3 things to properly clean your drivetrain, a mild degreaser (bike specific ones work the best), a coarse household scrub brush, and a lint free towel. A chain cleaning kit has everything you need and does an excellent job. First, spray down the chain with the degreaser and let it soak for a minute. Second, give the chain and cassette a scrub with the brush ensuring to loosen all the dirt and mud. On a muddy mountain bike rinse the chain and cassette with mild pressure from a garden hose as well. Finally, wipe your chain clean with the lint free towel until it shines. If your chain is really dirty give it another shot of degreaser and a scrub to get all of the dirt and old lube out of the links. Make sure your chain is completely dry before applying chain lube.
Lubing Your Chain
One of the biggest misconceptions cyclists have is more lube the better. Too much lube attracts dirt and is actually worse for your chain. Make sure you use a bike specific lube. Things like WD-40 are not actually a lubricant and can attract more dirt, loosen your chain links and, in the long run, do more damage to your chain. There are many different types of lube out there. Wet lubricants are good if you are riding in wet conditions because they repel water. Most cyclists use a dry lubricant, which is a great all-around lube. Don’t hesitate to call the Fezzari factory shop if you have questions on which lube is the best to use in your riding area. To lube your chain, lean your Fezzari against a wall, a tree or place it in a Fezzari Quickstand service stand (link to bike stand) so your cranks are free to spin. Apply a small amount of lube to the center of the chain link while turning your cranks to lube the entire length of the chain. Ensure the lube penetrates the center of the links and doesn’t roll off the side of the chain. Be sure not to over lubricate. Use a clean, lint free towel to wipe the excess lube off your chain. For the longest life possible clean and lube your chain every couple of weeks. If you are riding in muddy conditions you will need to clean your chain more often.
Now that your chain is squeak free go hit the trail or road on your Fezzari bike and see if you can’t notice the difference a clean and properly lubed chain can make on your ride. Your bike will love you for it.
