TRADITIONALLY, business associates would get to know each other over a round of golf. But road cycling is fast catching up as the preferred way of networking for the modern professional. A growing number of corporate-sponsored charity bike rides and city cycle clubs are providing an ideal opportunity to talk shop with like-minded colleagues and clients while discussing different bike frames and tricky headwinds. Many believe cycling is better than golf for building lasting working relationships, or landing a new job, because it is less competitive.

“When you play golf with somebody you have to decide if you’re going to beat them, or let them beat you,” says Peter Murray, a former architect, journalist and chairman of the NLA centre dedicated to London’s built environment. “If they’re a client and you don’t want to beat them you have to sort of cheat in order to lose. That seems to me not a good way of doing things.”

In 2005 Mr Murray, who is a keen long-distance rider, founded the annual Cycle to Cannes bike ride. This six-day charity event brings together architects and developers who want to cycle 1,500km from London to the MIPIM property fair in southern France each March. It now attracts around 90 riders and has raised £1.5m for a range of charities in Britain and abroad. This year Mr Murray has also founded a more ambitious ride called Portland to Portland. A team will depart Portland Oregon on April 27th and they are due to arrive in Portland Place, London, 76 days and 6575km later. Along the way they will visit cities to discuss the benefits of urban cycling and raise money for several architectural charities.

Group cycling, and especially long-distance riding, is a shared experience, Mr Murray says. Riders often collaborate and help each other out, taking turns to be at the front so that the riders in their slipstream can save almost a third of the effort needed to travel at the same speed. Some riders selflessly volunteer to stay in the front earning them the awe and gratitude of the entire group.

How someone rides a bike can give you a real insight into what a person is like, says Jean-Jacques Lorraine, founding director of Morrow+Lorraine, a young architecture practice in London, and a regular participant of Cycle to Cannes. “Some riders are very single-minded, others more collaborative; some are tactical, others an open book. Some don’t mind being soloists whilst others prefer alliance and allegiance.” A day in the saddle, racing uphill and downhill, creates a bonding experience that endures. “If I walk into a meeting and somebody says ‘I’ve done Cycle to Cannes’ it’s a done deal really,” says Mr Murray.

Mr Lorraine estimates that as much as 75% of the practice’s workload (around 45 projects) has come directly or indirectly from contacts made on the road while cycling, in particular on the Cycle to Cannes ride. Why does he think cycle rides lend themselves so well to networking and making professional contacts? “Grabbing a quick lunch or drink after work, whilst great for different reasons doesn’t give you long enough to get to know someone,” he says. Mr Murray believes long rides break down conventional hierarchical barriers. “A younger rider can be cycling along with a chief executive and take their wind or help them in some way and you get a reversal of the relationship. This changes the relationship when they are off the ride too.”

Many long-distance bike riders say cycling, especially over long distances, simply makes them feel good; it lifts their mood and concentrates things down to the essentials. “The pattern of fuelling, riding, fuelling, arriving, celebrating, sleeping and fuelling again puts all the focus on riding and the company of your fellow riders,” says Simon Mottram, chief executive of Rapha, a premium cycling-clothes brand. The simple repetitiveness eases the stresses and pressures of normal life, making it a powerful counterpoint to our sedentary lives, he adds.

Mr Mottram believes it is easier to get to know people while cycling than in other situations. “There is an easy rhythm about conversations on a bike.” Mr Lorraine makes the point even more strongly: “The adrenaline rushes, the serotonin pulses and the surges of endorphin create a kind of high, a sense of euphoria. I feel open, honest and generous to others. I often find I’m saying things on a bike which I wouldn’t normally say, and equally I’ve been confided in when I wasn’t expecting it.”

Perhaps the most compelling reason why cycling is a good way to network is because, for many professionals, it’s a passion and a way of life. “Getting out on the bike is what we’re all dreaming of doing whilst we’re sitting at our computers,” says Mr Mottram. And a shared passion is a fantastic way to start any relationship.

“Cycle to Cannes” happens each March. “Portland to Portland” leaves Portland, Oregon, on April 27th 2013

Source: http://www.economist.com/blogs/prospero/2013/04/business-networking

I’ve always been a distractable person. When I was a kid, I used to sit down on a Saturday afternoon to watch college basketball, only to jump off the couch midway through the first half and head outside to shoot baskets in the driveway. The same thing would happen while watching other sports. I’d much rather have been doing something, then watching something.

I’m also a daydreamer. I spend idle time thinking about setting personal records at the Crusher, winning the CTR, or surprise podium finishes at next year’s ‘cross races. I’ve been doing that sort of daydreaming for years. But year after year, event after event, those fantasies remain such. The here-and-now has never commanded my energy the way it should. (Read More via GrizzlyAdam.net).

Now that the warm weather is coming up on the horizon it is time to bring your bikes out of hibernation. Whether you are one that rode the entire year or one that that hung up your bicycle until the bitter winter months pass, these tips will be useful to you. All of these tips can apply to both road and mountain bikes.

We will be covering the following topics:
Cleaning your bike
Inspecting wearable parts
Lubing your chain
Checking Tire pressures

The basics about cleaning your bike

The first thing that you need to do is thoroughly clean your bike and especially the drive train Your parts will last 3 times longer if you keep them clean and properly lubed.
It is common for grease or dirt to build up on your chain and it tends to do so faster in the winter because of the wet conditions. A good rule of thumb to follow is if you see built up grit or anything darker in color than the metal the chain components are made of, it means that it is time to give these parts a good cleaning.

Many people use a mild soap degreaser such as liquid dish soap to clean their bikes. However, a lot of riders prefer using bike specific degreasers such as Park Tool Citrus ChainBrite Chain Cleaner or Pedros Oranj Peelz Degreaser.

Get yourself a good small brush to help clean the smaller, hard to reach places (sometimes a toothbrush is a good alternative). We recommend purchasing a cleaning kit that includes the tools and cleaning supplies you will need to clean your bike and drive train.

Use hose water, not a pressure washer as high pressured water can get into wheel bearings, bottom brackets, and other valuable parts causing rust damage.

9 things to check when inspecting wearable parts
It is important to make sure all essential wearable parts are in proper working order before you hit the trail.

1. Inspect all cables and housing. This includes brake cables or hydraulic break lines, shifter cables, and housing. Inspect for any fraying, splitting, or leaks. If any damage is visible on the cables, housing, or hoses you will want to replace them immediately.

2. Inspect chain for any rust or missing chain links. Check gears for any missing or broken teeth. If any teeth are missing or the chain shows excessive wear it is a good idea to replace these parts.

3. Inspect both tires for excessive wear or other damage such as embedded objects such as glass, thorns, etc. It is also important to check your tires for proper inflation. (This topic will be covered in more detail later in the article.)

4. Inspect wheels for any lateral play. This is usually caused by a loose hub which can result in damages to your hub or wheel. To check for lateral play simply place your hand on the wheel and try to move your wheel from one side of the fork leg to the other. This will allow you to feel if there is any movement in the hub. If there is any movement in the hub we recommend taking your wheel down to a local bike shop so they can properly tighten the cones on your hub.

5. Check the tightness of cranks and all other nuts and bolts. (If you own a full suspension mountain bike be sure to inspect and test bolts are tight on all rear suspension linkage parts)

6. Check that your bicycle is properly shifting through all gears. If you need assistance with adjusting your derailleurs we recommend the following instructional videos.

7. Inspect headset for proper tightness. An improperly adjusted headset can damage the headset itself or even your frame. If your headset is too loose you’ll feel a constant knocking sensation through your bars and quickly begin to damage parts. If the headset is too tight your bars will not turn freely and there will be excessive pressure and wear on the headset bearings.  The easiest way to check for a lose headset is to place one hand over where your fork crown and lower headset cup meet and use your other hand to hold your front brake. Begin to gently rock the bike front to back. If your headset is loose you will feel a knocking through the hand which you are holding over the lower headset cup.

8. Inspect your grips or bar tape for excessive wear. If there is excessive wear you may want to look into replacing the grips or bar tape.

9. Inspect your brakes to ensure that they have plenty of pad available

Lubing the chain
Lube your chain properly. You want to lube your chain in such a way that it is effective and not a wet dirt collector.
First, clean you chain really well, getting as much of the dirt grime and grease off as is possible. There are many great tools made for cleaning your chain. I personally use the (hyperlink parks tools chain cleaner). Let the chain dry out or blow it out with an air compressor to remove the moisture from the chain. When it is dry, hold your lube on top of the chain as it rolls over the top of the cassette. Next, aim to penetrate the lube inside the little bearings (inside the links) while pedaling the crank backwards. Let the chain to sit for a couple of minutes so as to allow the lubricant to effectively penetrate into the chain. Next take a wash cloth or towel and while pedaling backwards again, grab the chain with the cloth or towel and remove excess lube. Letting the lube soak in over-night is best.

Keep this up at least once a week if you are riding weekly, or two times a week if you are riding daily. Also pay attention to your chain and components: if you went on a really wet grimy ride you will be able to hear the grit grinding in the gears. Make sure you clean it after one of these exceptionally dirty rides.

Tire Pressure
You should be checking your tire pressure before each ride but now would be a great time to give those tires some air. Watch the tire pressure closely for the next time you fill them up. They will naturally lose some small amounts of pressure, but if they are flat or low within a week you need to locate the leak in your tube or tire bead.

Running your tires at the incorrect pressure can not only rob you of power but also wear your tires faster and make your job of pedaling harder. Everyone runs their tires at a different pressure according to their preferences. If you like the solid speed feel run a higher pressure, if you like a little more cushion lower the pressure a few notches.

The recommended tire pressures will be indicated in the sidewall of the tire on your bike. Each brand and type of tire is different, so inspect your tires’ sidewall to make sure. Just as a general rule, here is what most tires run for pressure:

These are all measured P.S.I. which stands for pounds per square inch.

Mountain: Max = 40
Normal = 35-40

Road: Max = 120
Normal = 110-120

Now that your bike is all clean, inspected, and tuned up, it’s time to get out and enjoy this wonderful warm weather.

This video will teach you how to properly adjust your disc brake calipers so they do not rub on the rotor. An Improperly aligned calipers is one of most common reason for squeaky brakes. A rubbing disc brake can slow you down, cause annoying noises, and result in premature wear of your brake pads.  Our Fezzari Technician will also teach you how to correct a bent rotor.

“Delaware River Heritage Trail” by kwesta1a

We have finally reached the end of this four-part series. As promised, here is the final set of landmarks to visit during your ride around the Delaware River Heritage Trail.

Elks-Brox Memorial Park

This is another one of the city-owned parks around the area. It features bathrooms, picnic areas and trails. It was built in response to the growing demand for open spaces that, during the Gilded Age between 1880 and 1920, were rapidly disappearing due to settlers.

Erie Railroad Yards

As you cross the West End Bridge along West Main Street, on your left, you will see what remains of the great freight yards of the Delaware Division, which used to sport a total of 75 miles of track. On the horizon is the High Point Monument, a reminder of the honor of New Jeysey’s war veterans. On your right, you will see remnants of the old railroad shops and facilities.

Port Jervis Fire Museum

The Port Jervis Fire Department runs an exhibit of fire memorabilia. The museum can be found at their restored 19^th century station on Orange Street. The displays include firefighting equipment and artifacts from as early as the 19^th century.

Gillinder Glass

This last place is not really on the trail, but it is still worth checking out. It is one of the oldest American glass companies that are still in operation today. It is located right at the corner of Liberty and Erie Streets, just a couple of blocks from Fort Decker.

Visitors can drop by and watch how the company manufactures its products using the exact same techniques that it used when it first opened more than a century ago. There is also a museum that showcases the rich history of glass making in the region. Finally, there is also a souvenir store for people who want to take home something to remember their visit by.

That is it. We have finally covered all the noteworthy landmarks around the trail. Now you know that you will surely have a worthwhile ride. Not only will it treat you to beautiful views, it will also take you back in time to when the area was still in the process of developing into what it is today.

So, what are you waiting for? Gear up and take your family and friends for a ride around this awesome trail.

Come back again soon for more great bike trails updates.

A Good Bike Fit Is the Easiest Way To Get Faster Instantly

There is something about triathlons that seems to suck you in. What starts with a goal to just survive the swim of your first race quickly turns into a deep passion for the sport of triathlon in most.

Soon we find ourselves spending gobs of money on triathlon specific gear, subscribing to Lava and Triathlete magazines, and walking around comfortably in clothes more revealing than the road bike kits we once said we’d never wear. It’s about this time that we concern ourselves with our times.

The most wonderful characteristic of triathlons are that they are a race against yourself for 99% of triathletes. Its not about what place you got, its about achieving your goals. Maybe this is why the sport is so addicting. We can all be successful!

Being the bike is longest portion of a triathlon race and the easiest to improve in, if you want to improve your times, this is the place you should focus on first. If you are a serious racer looking to compete and are not riding a triathlon/TT bike…get one.

For regular road bikes, a good fit is very important. For triathlon/TT bikes, a good fit is what will make that bike pay off. I see so many people at triathlons riding expensive triathlon bikes outfitted with all of the gadgets and expensive wheel sets that are riding with their seats back as far as possible and propped up so high in front they could as well have saved their money and ridden the road bike they already had. They are losing the benefits of a triathlon/TT bike. If you are going to spend the money on a triathlon specific bike, spend another $200-300 on the proper fit.  Fezzari’s 23-point custom setup will get you 99% there on this fit.  They take specific body measurements to determine the proper frame size, stem length and angle, stack height, bar width, crank arm length, etc.  This is pretty great because if you do need to change what comes standard on the bike, i.e. a medium bike usually comes with a 90mm stem, 172.5 crank, etc., you would have to pay this out of your pocket.  They include this free of charge on every bike purchased which can save you a good amount of cash. Take a couple minutes and watch this video that describes what the 23-point custom setup is all about.

What Type of Bike Fit Is Best?

I am hugely biased toward digital motion analysis fits, either 2D or 3D is fine. The system I seek out is Retul (http://www.retul.com/). Although these fits cost more (usually $200-300 compared to $75-150 for a manual fit), they are definitely worth the extra money. I’ve noticed that many manual bike fitters concern themselves more with the drive train and revolve everything around that. The couple manual triathlon bike fits I’ve had that were done in such a matter resulted in me being in a position that was more of a hybrid between a road bike position and TT position. At the time this position felt great to me, however after getting a digital fit, my eyes have been opened.

My rationale for prefering a digital bike fit is because it eliminates most human error. Research has provided us with information regarding ideal hip angles, knee angles, etc, etc for optimal power output, endurance, aeroness (is that a word?), and comfort. With a digital fit, markers are placed on specific body landmarks and angles are measured while pedaling. The fitter then can adjust the bike to place you within these ideal angles. Compare this to eyeballing a fit and utilizing ancient plumb lines. I love science and exactness, and that is what a digital fit provides.

Below are my before and after pictures of my bike fit. From the naked eye, the changes look small. However, from a performance perspective, the changes are big. Most notably, look at how my entire body looks like it rotates forward, making me more aero and put my legs in a position of greater power and endurance of the pedals. This is achieved without changing my hip to torso angle, which means no greater strain on the low back.

Here are my improvements in average speeds (compared to last years times) with changing to a triathlon bike and getting a digital fit:
Race 1: 25.0 mph compared to 22.1
Race 2: 24.1 mph compared to 20.9
Race 3: 22.5 mph compared to 20.5 (this course has 1500 ft of climbing and is almost better suited for a road bike)

Prior to my digital fit through Retul (and following my first manual fit with my current bike) I averaged about 0.8 mph slower on my standard training rides. Over the course of a 70.3 or Ironman distance, that equals a fairly significant amount of time.

So, the moral of this story is…if you are looking to get faster, get a professional bike fit (preferably digital). If you are going to spend money on a tri/TT bike, get a professional bike fit. Just get a professional bike fit, you’ll be happy you did.

Before each ride it is important to take time to perform a safety check of your bicycle. This can help prevent avoidable accidents and injuries and will only take couple minutes to do.

• Check Tire Pressure – Check both tires for proper inflation. This information can be found on the side of the tire. You’ll be surprised how quickly pressure will drop on your bike. Road bikes can lose up to 20-30 psi in just a few days. Check the tire treads for excessive wear or other damage.

• Check Brakes – Spin the wheels to check for rubbing and then apply the brakes to ensure they stop the bike smoothly and evenly. Check the brake pads for excessive wear.

• Check Cables and Housing – Check all cables and housing to make sure there is no fraying or splitting (leaking for hydraulic brakes.) Usually you can do a visual check on mechanical cables. Also, if the lever doesn’t pull smoothly and return to the original position smoothly, you may want to investigate further. For hydraulic brakes, test pressure when compressing to make sure it doesn’t compress into the grip. Also, make sure there is no leaking where the cables attach to the brake and the levers at both ends.

• Check Quick Release Levers on Wheels – Check the wheel quick release levers to ensure they are tight and secure. A good rule of thumb is when you close the quick release lever it should leaves an impression in the palm of your hand.

• Check the tightness of cranks and all other nuts and bolts.  (If you own a full-suspension bike ensure bolts are tight on all rear suspension linkage parts.) If you have a torque wrench, usually the setting is 120 IN-LB /15  N-M. If you don’t have a torque wrench, do your best to make sure the bolts are snug. We strongly recommend using a torque wrench to prevent over tightening that may result in damaged bolts or other components.  It’s also good to check each bolt on the frame and components (when possible) to make sure that they are tight.

• Check Shifting – Check that your bicycle is properly shifting through all the gears. If you need assistance with adjusting your derailleur we recommend the following instructional video. Adjust Rear Derailleur, Adjust Front Derailleur

• Check Chain Wear and Lubrication – Check for dirt and proper lubrication. A good rule of thumb on lubricating is if you touch the chain and dirt or grime comes off on your hand, you should clean it. For lubrication, if the chain is dry to the touch, it needs to be lubricated. Don’t over lubricate your chain, either. Here are a couple different kits to help you keep your drive train clean.  Check the chain for over stretching. Put a ruler on the chain and measure 6 inches. The links should line up at the 0 and 6 inch mark on your tape measure. If the links do not line up on the 0 and 6 inch mark it may be time to replace your chain.

Perform a low-speed ride to ensure that your bicycle is functioning properly. If everything seems to be in order get out and enjoy your ride!

Safety and Emergency Repair Checklist

These are some items that we recommend having with you when you go out on a bicycle ride.

• Have a helmet that fits properly
• Carry a toolkit for basic repairs, including a pump, wrenches, patch kit, or spare tube, etc. Many companies sell accessory kits that include these tools.
• Carry your driver’s license or some other form of ID.
• Carry emergency contact information as well as any medical information that may be needed in-case of an accident
• First aid kit
• Reflectors and flashing rear safety light
• Wear brightly-colored clothing to improve visibility
• Carry a map or cue sheet to ensure you don’t get lost
• Energy foods, snacks or extra cash
• Bring adequate water in a bottle or hydration pack
• Carry a few dollars for emergencies

*We recommend becoming familiar with how to repair a flat tire before you hit the road/trail. It is always a good idea to practice changing or patching a tube at home before you need to do it on the road/trail. If you are unsure how to change a tube please feel free to watch our instructional videos. Mountain Bike Tube, Road Bike Tube

Your rear end is one of the biggest and most powerful group of muscles in your body. It’s in charge of extending your trunk and laterally moving and extending your hips so it helps you perform movements like climbing stairs and rising from a seated position—things that you do practically on a daily basis.

Yes, these things seem pretty important. But the single most important function of your posterior (based on our own opinion at least) is that, when it’s properly toned, it dramatically boosts your sex appeal. And who doesn’t want to look good?

Now, with this important revelation in mind, your mission is to make sure that your behind is in top shape at all times.

Hit the Bike

Road bikes, mountain bikes—it doesn’t matter what type. Just hop on one and start riding. The motions involved in riding a bike like the constant shifting of weight and pedaling forces your butt muscles (along with a couple of others) to fire repeatedly, simulating several exercises at the same time like squatting and planking.

Your riding position determines which of the following muscles or a combination thereof are hit:

1. Gluteal muscles
2. Lower back
3. Abdominals

You end up not only with a tight derrière, but a nice strong core as well.

Of course, it’s also easy to control the intensity of your bike workouts using the gears on most, if not all, modern mountain bikes or road bikes. Couple this with varying terrains and uphill riding and your butt (and other “bike muscles”) will surely be put to the test.

How’s that for a great bang-for-buck workout?

Melt the fat off

But what good is a perfectly developed butt when it’s covered by a layer (or several layers) of flab? Fortunately, riding a bike also doubles as a great cardio workout.

That’s right. It gets your heart rate up and helps you not only burn, but keep the fat off as well. The places you get to visit along the way are just icing on the cake.